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archive for bread

daring bakers: tender potato bread

Monday, November 26th, 2007




The Daring Bakers strike again! Our hostess, Tanna of My Kitchen in Half Cups challenged all 400+ Daring Bakers with Tender Potato Bread this month - a savory recipe. Delightful, really. I like to make sweets, love to eat savories!

potato bread requires… potatoes



I peeled, chopped, and boiled the potatoes in water with salt until they were tender enough to mash. Tanna suggested beginners start closer to 8 oz of potatoes and experts closer to 16 oz. My potatoes weighed in at 13.5 oz and I’m no expert bread baker. But I dove in head-first. It was a reckless kind of morning. I like my mashed potatoes to be chunky, but that wasn’t going to cut it for the bread. After mashing the potatoes, I ran them through my Cuisinart to smooth it up more (good idea).

okay… here’s a reason to get a food mill



I measured out three cups of the potato water and added it to the mashies. I waited for what seemed like forever before the temperature finally came within the range (70-80F) for me to add active dry yeast. They say a watched pot never boils… well, there may be truth to the inverse too.

measure the temperature



After stirring in the yeast and letting it sit for 5 minutes, I stirred in 2 cups of flour and let it rest for about 7 more minutes. I love the smell of yeast breads.

add salt and butter



Next I incorporated a cup of whole wheat flour and then 2 more cups of flour. Sounds like a lot of flour right? Hardly. It was frighteningly sticky to me (I’ve baked real bread twice in my life). I mean, it was like the black hole of stickiness - right there in my kitchen.

and you thought quicksand was bad



But Tanna warned us about the dough being sticky. I was cautious not to add too much flour to avoid ending up with a hot brick of… brick. I wound up adding another 2 cups of flour during the kneading process. Despite my lack of bread experience, I know how to knead clay. I just treat bread like delicate clay that I plan on eating. I knew it was on the shy side since the dough was still quite sticky. It would feel smooth to the touch and then stick to me like an alien.

we knead to bake… we knead to bake…

time out: now you sit there and rise and think about what you just said



My dough doubled in size within an hour, but that probably has a lot to do with my 8500 ft. elevation. This time I wised up and did the second kneading on a marble board that I could wash off in my sink, because it took me a while to clean up the kitchen table after the first kneading.

still sticky



I kneaded in about 1 more cup of flour, so my total on the all-purpose flour was 7 cups out of 8 1/2. But I didn’t care at that point, I just wanted to shape the bread and bake it. I decided to make largish rolls and focaccia. Splitting the dough roughly in half, I began with the rolls.

brushing butter after the second rise on the rolls

brushing olive oil on the focaccia dough

sprinkle sea salt, rosemary, poke your finger into the dough and hear it giggle



Tanna gave us free reign on the focaccia toppings as long as it was savory. I’ve always loved kalamata olives and feta. They are a happy combination in my mind and in my mouth. I added some fresh diced tomatoes for color and fruit.

they look like little jewels



Everything baked up beautifully and the smell of fresh bread lingered in the air long into the evening. Working with this dough, I definitely gained confidence in the bread baking department.

focaccia with rosemary, kalamata olives, feta, and tomatoes

more like buns instead of rolls



I’m really tempted to try folding in pancetta, cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, perhaps some artichokes… Did I ever mention my love affair with the sandwich? Love sandwiches. The moment Tanna announced potato bread, I knew - I knew exactly what I wanted to have with my potato bread…

barbecue pork and cole slaw on potato bread



A huge thanks to Tanna for hosting and challenging and helping the Daring Bakers become better Daring Bakers. Be sure to check out everyone else’s creations. It’s a creative and talented group of people who love to bake!

Tender Potato Bread
from Home Baking: The Artful Mix of Flour & Tradition Around the World by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid

makes 1 large tender-crumbed pan loaf AND something more; one 10X15 inch crusty yet tender foccacia, 12 soft dinner rolls, or a small pan loaf

4 medium to large floury (baking) potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks.
[Tanna Note: For the beginner bread baker I suggest no more than 8 ounces of potato; for the more advanced no more than 16 ounces. The variety of potatoes you might want to use would include Idaho, Russet & Yukon gold, there are others.]
4 cups (950 ml) water, reserve cooking water
1 tbsp plus 1 tsp salt
2 tsp active dry yeast
6 ½ cups to 8 ½ cups (1 kg to 1350g) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tbsp unsalted butter, softened
1 cup (130g) whole wheat flour

making the dough (directions for making by hand):
Put potatoes and 4 cups water in a sauce pan and bring to boil. Add 1 tsp salt and cook, half covered, until the potatoes are very tender. Drain potatoes, SAVE POTATO WATER, and mash potatoes well. Measure out 3 cups (750ml) of reserved potato water. Add extra water if needed to make 3 cups. Place the water and mashed potatoes in the bowl you plan to mix the bread dough in. Let cool to lukewarm (70-80°F/21 - 29°C) – stir well before testing the temperature. If using active dry yeast or fresh yeast, mix & stir yeast into cooled water and mashed potatoes & water and let stand 5 minutes. Then add 2 cups of flour to the yeast mix and allow to rest several minutes. If using instant dry yeast, add yeast to 2 cups all-purpose flour and whisk. Add yeast and flour to the cooled mashed potatoes & water and mix well. Allow to rest/sit 5 minutes. Sprinkle in the remaining 1 tbsp salt and the softened butter; mix well. Add the 1 cup whole wheat flour, stir briefly. Add 2 cups of the unbleached all-purpose flour and stir until all the flour has been incorporated. Turn the dough out onto a generously floured surface and knead for about 10 minutes, incorporating flour as needed to prevent sticking. The dough will be very sticky to begin with, but as it takes up more flour from the kneading surface, it will become easier to handle; use a dough scraper to keep your surface clean. The kneaded dough will still be very soft. Place the dough in a large clean bowl or your rising container of choice, cover with plastic wrap or lid, and let rise about 2 hours or until doubled in volume. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface and knead gently several minutes. It will be moist and a little sticky.

forming the bread:
Divide the dough into 2 unequal pieces in a proportion of one-third and two-thirds (one will be twice as large as the other). Place the smaller piece to one side and cover loosely.

To shape the large loaf:
Butter a 9 x 5 x 2.5 inch loaf/bread pan. Flatten the larger piece of dough on the floured surface to an approximate 12 x 8 inch oval, then roll it up from a narrow end to form a loaf. Pinch the seam closed and gently place seam side down in the buttered pan. The dough should come about three-quarters of the way up the sides of the pan. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise for 35 to 45 minutes, until puffy and almost doubled in volume.

To make a small loaf with the remainder:
Butter an 8×4X2 inch bread pan. Shape and proof the loaf the same way as the large loaf.

To make rolls:
Butter a 13 x 9 inch sheet cake pan or a shallow cake pan. Cut the dough into 12 equal pieces. Shape each into a ball under the palm of your floured hand and place on the baking sheet, leaving 1/2 inch between the balls. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise for about 35 minutes, until puffy and almost doubled.

To make focaccia:
Flatten out the dough to a rectangle about 10 x 15 inches with your palms and fingertips. Tear off a piece of parchment paper or wax paper a little longer than the dough and dust it generously with flour. Transfer the focaccia to the paper. Brush the top of the dough generously with olive oil, sprinkle on a little coarse sea salt, as well as some rosemary leaves, if you wish and then finally dimple all over with your fingertips. Cover with plastic and let rise for 20 minutes.

baking the bread:
Note about baking order: bake the flat-bread before you bake the loaf; bake the rolls at the same time as the loaf.

Note about baking temps from Tanna: I believe that 450°F(230°C) is going to prove to be too hot for the either the large or small loaf of bread for the entire 40/50 minutes. I am going to put the loaves in at 450°(230°C) for 10 minutes and then turn the oven down to 375°F (190 °C) for the remaining time.

Note about cooling times: Let all the breads cool on a rack for at least 30 minutes before slicing. Rolls can be served warm or at room temperature.

For loaves and rolls:
Dust risen loaves and rolls with a little all-purpose flour or lightly brush the tops with a little melted butter or olive oil (the butter will give a golden/browned crust). Slash loaves crosswise two or three times with a razor blade or very sharp knife and immediately place on the stone, tiles or baking sheet in the oven. Place the rolls next to the loaf in the oven. Bake rolls until golden, about 30 minutes. Bake the small loaf for about 40 minutes. Bake the large loaf for about 50 minutes. Transfer the rolls to a rack when done to cool. When the loaf or loaves have baked for the specified time, remove from the pans and place back on the stone, tiles or baking sheet for another 5 to 10 minutes. The corners should be firm when pinched and the bread should sound hollow when tapped on the bottom.

For focaccia:
Place a baking stone or unglazed quarry tiles, if you have them, if not use a no edged baking/sheet (you want to be able to slide the shaped dough on the parchment paper onto the stone or baking sheet and an edge complicates things). Place the stone or cookie sheet on a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 450°F/230°C. If making focaccia, just before baking, dimple the bread all over again with your fingertips. Leaving it on the paper, transfer to the hot baking stone, tiles or baking sheet. Bake until golden, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a rack (remove paper) and let cool at least 10 minutes before serving.

savory bread pudding

Wednesday, October 3rd, 2007

I had attempted a savory bread pudding earlier in the year, only to discover that marjoram tastes like soap and ruined the whole dish for me. I swore to myself that my next version would include bacon and omit marjoram. And indeed, I did just that and then some. I am a huge fan of sweet bread puddings. I prefer to work with chocolate when making desserts, but I love to eat non-chocolate desserts, if that makes any sense? So I thought that a savory bread pudding with some of my favorite ingredients would work out.


the cheeses and green onions



I replaced 2 cups of swiss with 2 cups of gruyère because I love the intensity of a good cooked gruyère. And I used broccoli instead of asparagus (because broccoli was on sale), and added mushrooms and of course - the beloved bacon. All hail the piggy! Such a magical animal…

an undeniably delicious combination



You are supposed to use stale french bread, but I had a fresh loaf of challah and that’s what I used. The beauty of bread pudding is that it’s totally free form.

layer bread, then veggies and bacon, then cheese…

pour the egg and milk mixture



On the first bite, I was expecting the repulsive taste of soap. That’s how traumatized I was after that previous version (something I nabbed from Epicurious). Thankfully, it was terrific and no sign of nasty marjoram either!

it’s like a bread pudding version of my favorite quiche



Savory Bread Pudding

6 eggs
2 cups milk
2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground pepper
4 cups gruyère, shredded
1 cup parmesan, grated
1/3 cup green onions, minced
1 lb bacon
8 oz mushrooms, sliced
2 heads broccoli, chopped and blanched
1 lb whole loaf of stale/old bread

Oven: 375F. Whisk the eggs, milk, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Set aside. Mix the cheeses and green onions in another bowl. Set aside. Cook the bacon and drain on paper towels. Chop or break the bacon into little pieces. Sauté the mushrooms in some oil (or a little bit of the bacon grease). Mix the bacon, mushrooms, and broccoli together in a bowl. Set aside. Rip or cut the bread into 1-inch cubes. In a large baking dish (9×13 ish) layer half of the bread. Then sprinkle half of the bacon mixture. Then spread half of the cheese mixture. Pour half of the egg mixture evenly over top. Repeat. Sprinkle any leftover cheese on top and press the pudding down. Bake for 45 minutes or until top is golden brown.

sticky buns

Tuesday, August 14th, 2007

I haven’t done any yeast doughs since we moved from sea-level. If you consider the pizza dough we make, it isn’t actually we, but Jeremy who makes that. I really love the yeasty smell and flavor of home baked breads. I tend not to bake breads because I know I’ll just end up eating them. I’m a sandwich whore. The other main deterrent for not baking breads is that I wasn’t a seasoned bread baker at sea-level and then tossing our elevation into the mix makes for quite some uncertainty. We’re not even at a “nice” elevation like 5000 feet which is what “high altitude” directions usually target. 8500 feet delves into the realm of “who the hell lives up there?” We do.

Today I tried a bastardized combination of two recipes: a dough from The (not so) New High Altitude Cookbook and the sticky part from a recipe by Nancy Silverton. I really wanted to make the whole recipe by Silverton until I read that the brioche dough required 4-6 hours of refrigeration and I wasn’t planning to run the oven in the afternoon. But eventually I will make brioche, just about my Favorite Bread in the Whole World.


get that yeast action going

when the dough is ready, rub some butter around the surface

while you’ve got the butter out, rub a stick in each pan

sprinkle brown sugar and pecans



I only put 2/3 of a stick of butter in each pan, although in hindsight, I should have done the whole stick. I just don’t want to be killing everyone with 100% fat sticky buns. I guess there are worse ways to die.

roll out the dough into a long rectangle

brush obscene amount of melted butter, sprinkle brown sugar, cinnamon, and pecans

roll it up

pinch it closed

slice

set in pans and let rise



The baking instructions were somewhat different between the two recipes, so I compromised somewhere in between on the temperature and the time. I think I should let it bake longer because the first two pans came out slightly grainy in the sugar topping. I’m guessing this is partly because of the reduced butter and partly because I need to let it really caramelize (cooking longer). The second two pans baked longer and had the better gooey topping. Be sure to turn it out immediately because when the caramel cools, it might not be so easy to remove from the pan. Don’t serve it right out of the oven though - people will burn their mouths on the caramel.

we like the gooey

sticky buns: delish!



Now, before you go and try the recipe, just be warned that most of the doughs for the rolls call for baking soda/baking powder at sea-level. This version is high altitude, which omits those leavening agents because… air pressure is lower and so the dough rises pretty darn well on its own. You could easily replace the dough with another recipe and follow the rest.

High Altitude Sticky Cinnamon Buns
makes about 4 9-inch pans

dough
2 packages active dry yeast (4.5 tsp)
1 cup lukewarm water (between 100 and 110F)
1/2 cup plus 1 tbsp sugar
1 cup scalded milk
6 tbsp melted butter
2 tsp salt
3 eggs, beaten
7 cups sifted unbleached all-purpose flour

filling
1/2 cup butter, melted
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 cup pecans, chopped
1/4 cup cinnamon (or less, I just sprinkle it on to my liking)

sticky
4 sticks (1 lb.) butter, softened
2 cups pecans, chopped
2 cups brown sugar, packed

In a large bowl (to accommodate your raised dough), sprinkle yeast into lukewarm water and add 1 tbsp sugar. Stir to dissolve. Mix the melted butter, 1/2 cup sugar, and salt into the scalded milk. Cool the milk mixture to lukewarm and add to yeast mixture. Add beaten eggs. Mix well. Add one-third of the sifted flour and mix batter until smooth and satiny. Add remaining flour gradually and switch to hands or dough hook as dough stiffens. Knead for a few minutes. Grease the surface and cover the bowl with a damp cloth and let rise in a warm place (about 80F) until doubled in size (about an hour).

Meanwhile, prepare 4 9-inch round pans. Spread one stick of butter (4 oz.) into the bottom of each pan. Sprinkle with brown sugar and pecans.

When dough is ready, punch it down and roll it out onto a lightly floured surface. Shape it into a large rectangle. Brush butter onto the dough and sprinkle the brown sugar, pecans, and cinnamon evenly over the butter. Roll the dough like a carpet and pinch the end onto the roll. You can use some water to help it stick to itself. Slice the roll into 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch pieces and set in baking pans. Cover the pans with a damp cloth and allow to rise a second time until doubled in size (about 45 minutes).

Bake at 375 for 35 minutes or until golden brown and bubbling. Remove from oven and invert onto serving plate. Let cool. Serve that day.